We trooped back in to the bar, in time for a downpour that really meant it. A drunk guy without a shirt wandered in and sat far too close to us. He mocked us to the others and then ordered himself drinks on our tab. He spoke to me while his spit hit my face, then leered at my chest. We left him sat there. The last thing we heard as we left was the argument he was having with the bartender- he had no money to pay.
Further on, we found a stupidly large stork, prehistoric-looking, catching frogs in the rice paddies. Then a full rainbow formed, all the way over the paddies and the road. We stopped and cooked up some coffee in a field, watched by a friendly cow.
Later that night two Assamese kids turned up outside our hotel door to see us- they had heard about us and wanted to check us out for themselves. They were really nice, and we sat in the restaurant drinking Fanta and swapping photos. We swore we wouldn’t forget Pathsala, and I don’t think we will.
We saw people threshing their wheat using cows to trample it in circles.
Grain was being laid out to dry on the new road.
The hotel was full- we stopped for a moment and a group of boys immediately started filming themselves with the bike.
We left again a day later, somewhat recovered.
Stopped at a bar, where some young rickshaw drivers drank large pegs of whisky at 12 o’clock, and we ate noodles and bought some rum for later, and got waved at by a huddle of young lads in a hut. We rode past a truck where tribal village men sat on top of a giant pile of sacks, and gawped outrageously at us as they spotted the bike. They didn’t shut their mouths, but waved as we passed.
Shillong was busy but cosmopolitan, with wide roads and flats that could have been anywhere in England. We drank our rum and went to the decent restaurant for munch, where middle class locals were all dressed up in stunning saris, and their small children ran amok around the tables with balloons.
Every time we go anywhere we get laughed at, but people are generally friendly.
We chewed paaan and then more paan, got high as a kite and wandered round town in the dark looking at lights and spitting everywhere, everything speeded up and funky. Found a sign warning us against urinating, next to a urine-covered wall.
Young men stood out in their Eminem T-shirts, looking far too modern for the insane mediaeval crush.