the first bike toppling. the road was worse than it looks!!!
Eventually it started to get dark and chilly and we spotted a reservoir. We stripped and had a freezing, naked reservoir wash, slipping off the rocks into ankle-deep mud at the bottom. I even tried some intrepid leg-shaving...
its a lot colder than it looks.
Two minutes later our deserted spot had a car driving through it, with a young family in. Had they timed it even slightly earlier, their young, impressionable eyes would have been subjected to two naked, white, goose-bumped individuals in the middle of their lake.
We had the tent-erection pretty much underway (it’s a lengthy process) when, in the middle of nowhere, a police car appeared. They pulled up looking shellshocked and were fairly pleasant in a nonplussed sort of way, but let us know we weren't going to be allowed to camp there. We tried to squeeze a reason out of them, but only got a general impression of Danger. Eventually they gave up and shrugged- we could do as we wish. We wished to camp, but slightly less than we had wished it earlier. We set up just as it got dark (very dark), and I had a very restless night wondering abut axe-murderers and werewolves- why were the police driving round deserted reservoirs with binoculars? Adam took the hammer to bed with him. I had a very scary midnight piss a foot away from the tent.
We survived. A month later we would discover from a knowledgeable English couple that Metsovo, the nearest small town to the reservoir, had had an inhabitant killed by a bear whilst camping, two weeks before we camped there. You would think the Greek police would have at least been able to mime ‘large ferocious bear’.
Nevertheless, we were still there in the morning, and the friendly local police dropped by again for a chat (and to check for bear-mauling). It was a peaceful morning and a strange fellow with a big stick wandered down to the water, shouting to hear the echos.
the bear is just off-camera...